HOW TO DECONTAMINATE YOUR CAR WITH IRON X
In our post about The Differences Between Wheel Cleaners, I talked about how Iron X chemically reacts with the iron particles from your brakes and dissolves them. Brake dust isn’t the only way a car gets contaminated with iron particles though. If you just bought a brand new car, chances are it was transported by train and has rail dust contamination all over. Yep, your brand new car needs a full decontamination. Probably a good polishing too because most dealerships don’t care for the cars properly. They scratch them up just from improper washing and drying. Welcome to Detail Sector where we tell you the truth. Don’t get the Simoniz protection deal either.
You want to fully clean your wheels and tires before you go ahead and decontaminate the rest of the car. The wheels are normally the dirtiest part of the washing. You can use an all purpose cleaner to get the majority of the dirt off, and then use Iron X to dissolve the Iron particles. Spray it on, and let it sit for about 5 minutes. If it’s a hot day outside, don’t the product dry and try to stay in the shade. You may have to do one wheel at a time to make sure the product works fully. You can wet it with a hose if it starts to dry up on you.
You’ll start to see the product turn purple on your wheels if there are any significant amount of iron particles. Using ceramic brake pads produces less brake dust, so make note of that if you have those on your car. You can use a brush to move the product around to get full coverage. Use a wheel whoolie to get the barrels of the wheels as well. The barrels can get corroded very easily since they are harder to clean and directly exposed to the brakes. Keep up on this area, and we suggest protecting your wheels by taking them off and applying a sealant or coating.
Iron X doing it’s thing and turning those dirty wheels deep purple
Wash The Car
Your next step is to wash the car with whatever method you choose. The 2 bucket wash method, traditional rinseless washing, or the Garry Dean method. This is where personal preference as well as condition of the car before starting comes in. Dirtier or muddy cars will traditionally need a 2 bucket wash method to safely remove the dirt without scratching, or a careful Garry Dean method.
We need to wash the car first to get all the surface dirt off and allow Iron X to actually dissolve the iron particles embedded in the clear coat. Without doing a basic wash, the Iron X won’t be as effective.
Time to get your bottle of Iron X again. Start by spraying the top surfaces of the car and work your way down. Pay extra attention to areas like behind the wheels, bumper, back trunk area, and the lower sides. These areas get the most abuse and iron contamination.
Let the product sit for about 5-7 minutes. Again just like the wheels, we want this to be done in the shade or a cool day. If it’s hot outside, keep the car wet to make sure it doesn’t dry. You may need to use more product if you’re in a warmer climate to avoid it drying up on you. The product will start to turn purple as it reacts to the iron around your car. It will dissolve the particles into smaller and smaller pieces as the product sits. Once the dwell time is reached, rinse off the entire car. You can optionally go around the car again with the Iron X for a second pass if you want. Normally most of the iron is dissolved in one pass.
Optional Next Steps
From this point the car is decontaminated from iron particles, but it’s not fully decontaminated. After using Iron X you can also use a clay bar to remove the remaining surface contaminants. If you have some heavy tar build up behind the wheel areas, you can use a tar remover to help break that down. You can also use a bug remover on the front area of the car if you have some bugs remaining.
Basically Iron X is just one part of the entire decontamination process. Once the entire car is decontaminated, it’s best to use a long lasting sealant like Optimum Opti-Seal to keep dirt and contamination away from your paint.